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CanteenChef Dennis Leary, late of Rubicon, cooks every dish in a tiny open galley kitchen, in this once-diner, now modern eatery, which features four booths and seven counter stools. The dinner seatings fill up a week or two in advance, because his seasonal fare (menus change weekly) is amazingly delicious. Few dishes repeat, save the perfect vanilla souffle, but we've enjoyed silky soups (such as white corn with bacon); a spicy-hot crab salad cooled by a ball of cucumber sorbet; plump roasted quail with sweetbreads and raisins; a "pot au feu" of veal filet, peppered beef brisket, and foie gras; and a deconstructed sundae of rich caramel sauce, coffee ice cream, and salted almonds.
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VenueCanteen Commodore Hotel, 817 Sutter (at Jones) San Francisco CA, 94109 Map© 2010 SF Weekly, LP, All rights reserved.
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